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Et rundt utebord til uteplassen krever verken spesialverktøy eller dyre materialer. Med vanlig impregnert treverk, en stikksag og en enkel hjemmelaget jigg bygger du et solid spisebord med diameter på 153 centimeter – et mål du ikke finner i noen butikk. Her får du komplett materialliste, kappliste og fremgangsmåte.

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Diameter: 153 cm
\nHøyde: 76 cm
\nMaterialer: trykkimpregnert furu i 36x148, 98x98 og 36x48 mm
\nFleksibelt: bordet kan også bygges firkantet – da dropper du bare det siste kappesteget

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Sirkelen er enklere enn du tror

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Mange kvier seg for å tegne opp en sirkel og sage etter streken på frihånd – med god grunn. Løsningen er en enkel jigg som styrer stikksagen for deg. Den tar under ti minutter å lage, fungerer uansett hvilken stikksag du har, og gir en jevn kant hele veien rundt.

\n\n

I videoen nederst i artikkelen ser du hvordan jiggen lages, og hva som er viktig å tenke på. Investerer du de ekstra minuttene, sitter du igjen med en metode du kan bruke i mange andre byggeprosjekter senere.

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Materialer og kappliste

\n\n

Bordplaten består av ti bord i 36x148 mm. Ti bord à 148 mm gir i teorien 148 cm, men fuktige materialer er gjerne litt bredere – derfor ender dette bordet på rundt 153 cm. Har du tørre materialer, legger du bordene med litt mellomrom og justerer sirkelmålet etter faktisk bredde.

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Kapp opp alle delene før du begynner monteringen. Da flyter resten av jobben lettere, og den runde formen sager du aller sist.

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bygger du det runde utebordet"}],"blocks":[{"name":"gridblock","bricks":[{"editables":[{"typeName":"Editable","type":"input","name":"brick-position","value":"0"},{"typeName":"Editable","type":"select","name":"button-position","value":"button-left"},{"typeName":"Editable","type":"input","name":"button-text","value":""},{"typeName":"Editable","type":"select","name":"button-type","value":"secondary"},{"object":null,"typeName":"Editable","type":"relation","name":"doc","value":{"id":null,"type":null,"subtype":null}},{"value":false,"typeName":"Editable","type":"checkbox","name":"externalLinkCheckBox"},{"value":false,"typeName":"Editable","type":"checkbox","name":"faqEnabled"},{"value":false,"typeName":"Editable","type":"checkbox","name":"hideButton"},{"value":false,"typeName":"Editable","type":"checkbox","name":"hideImage"},{"value":false,"typeName":"Editable","type":"checkbox","name":"hidePrem"},{"value":false,"typeName":"Editable","type":"checkbox","name":"hideTitle"},{"thumbnail":null,"id":465925,"alt":"Skjermbilde 2026-06-24 kl","width":3024,"height":1698,"path":"/_default_upload_bucket/image-thumb__465925__b2c-article-link-grid-5/Skjermbilde%202026-06-24%20kl.%2010.00.12.png","xsThumbnail":{"path":"/_default_upload_bucket/image-thumb__465925__b2c-article-link-grid-5/Skjermbilde%202026-06-24%20kl.%2010.00.12~-~media--a98c7cad--query.png","height":88,"width":176},"smThumbnail":{"path":"/_default_upload_bucket/image-thumb__465925__b2c-article-link-grid-5/Skjermbilde%202026-06-24%20kl.%2010.00.12~-~media--bee197ce--query.png","height":144,"width":288},"mdThumbnail":{"path":"/_default_upload_bucket/image-thumb__465925__b2c-article-link-grid-5/Skjermbilde%202026-06-24%20kl.%2010.00.12~-~media--0bab031e--query.png","height":184,"width":368},"lgThumbnail":{"path":"/_default_upload_bucket/image-thumb__465925__b2c-article-link-grid-5/Skjermbilde%202026-06-24%20kl.%2010.00.12~-~media--3577767b--query.png","height":294,"width":588},"xlThumbnail":null,"xxlThumbnail":null,"typeName":"Editable","type":"image","name":"image21","value":{"id":465925,"alt":"","cropPercent":null,"cropWidth":null,"cropHeight":null,"cropTop":null,"cropLeft":null,"hotspots":[],"marker":[]}},{"typeName":"Editable","type":"wysiwyg","name":"preamble","value":"

Skru sargene fast mellom beina i toppen. Det enkleste er å skru fra utsiden og rett gjennom. Vil du skjule skruene, skrur du i stedet skrått fra undersiden eller baksiden. Bruk minst tre konstruksjonsskruer per bein, og pass på at sargene klemmes hardt inn mot beina – det er denne forbindelsen som stiver av hele bordet. Gjort riktig blir konstruksjonen svært stabil.

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Snu understellet riktig vei og legg de tre lektene på plass: de to korteste 27 cm inn fra hver sin ytterside, den lengste i midten. Merk av på toppen av sargene – lektene skal felles ned tilsvarende tykkelsen sin, cirka 36 mm. Bruk lekten selv som mal: hold den jevnt med toppen og strek under.

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Sag spor og fjern materialet med et tappjern – totalt seks hakk. De trenger ikke være perfekte; poenget er å senke bordplaten litt og gi bordet et lettere uttrykk. Dette er dessuten en ypperlig anledning til å oppdage hvor enkelt et tappjern faktisk er å bruke.

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Skru lektene fast i hakkene, slik at de stikker like langt ut på hver side. Vil du kunne løfte av eller demontere bordplaten senere, lar du lektene ligge løst her – du kommer ikke til skruene etter at platen er montert, men du kan feste alt fra undersiden helt til slutt.

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Legg de ti bordene ut på bakken med den fineste siden ned – det blir toppen av bordet. Snu understellet opp ned og legg det oppå. Sentrer det, og skru gjennom lektene og ned i bordene. Lektene skal ligge på tvers av bordene, slik at alle ti blir festet.

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Har du valgt løse lekter, bruker du likevel understellet som mal mens du fester lektene til bordplaten – da er du sikker på at de treffer hakkene etterpå. Dette er vanskelig å måle seg til.

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Snu bordet riktig vei. Nå kan du si deg fornøyd med et firkantet bord – eller ta steget videre. Still jiggen inn på radiusen: 76,5 cm for et bord på 153 cm i diameter. Finn senter av platen, fest jiggen og bor et lite starthull der sagbladet skal treffe. Sett stikksagen i hullet, start den og før den rolig rundt hele bordet.

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Ett viktig triks, uansett sagmerke: Skru av pendelfunksjonen, som vanligvis har en skala fra 0 til 3 – sett den på laveste trinn. Pendelen får sagen til å jobbe raskere, men gir et grovere og mer unøyaktig kutt.

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Det lille borehullet i senter av bordplaten er et perfekt utgangspunkt hvis du vil ha parasoll i bordet. Bruk en hullsag tilpasset diameteren på parasollstangen.

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Avslutt med å pusse alle kanter med pussemaskin eller pussekloss. Den lille ekstrajobben er absolutt verdt det og gir bordet et langt mer raffinert uttrykk. Behandle til slutt med olje, beis eller maling i ønsket farge – eller la det impregnerte treverket gråne naturlig.

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Dette er et tungt bord der skruene alene står for avstivingen. Hver gang bordet flyttes eller dras over terrassen, belastes skruefestene ekstra. Bruk derfor konstruksjonsskruer som er godkjent for bærende konstruksjoner – de tåler belastningen som følger med bevegelse. I kystnære strøk anbefales rustfrie eller syrefaste skruer til synlige fester i trykkimpregnert treverk.

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Dette får du hos Maxbo

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Ja. Følg nøyaktig samme fremgangsmåte, men dropp steget der bordplaten sages rund. Da får du et kvadratisk bord på cirka 153 x 160 cm.

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Ti bord à 148 mm gir i teorien 148 cm, men ferske, fuktige materialer er ofte litt bredere enn nominelt mål. Med tørre materialer legger du bordene med litt mellomrom – og justerer jiggen etter det faktiske målet.

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Nei, impregnert treverk kan stå ubehandlet og vil da gråne naturlig. Olje eller beis gir deg ønsket farge og reduserer sprekkdannelse og oppflising. Vent til treverket er tørt før du behandler det.

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Ja. Ikke skru lektene fast i sargene under monteringen – fest heller bordplaten fra undersiden helt til slutt. Da kan platen løftes av, og bordet blir mye enklere å frakte og flytte.

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Jiggen fungerer med alle stikksager. Det viktigste er å skru av pendelfunksjonen når du sager sirkelen – da får du et finere og mer presist kutt.

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Har du en stor uteplass kan det ofte være vanskelig å innrede den slik at den innbyder til kos, her kommer dette med soner inn! Er det en ting jeg har lært så er det at å dele inn større plasser i soner, gjør underverker! Det fine med dette, er at du kan gjøre dette selv om du ikke har en stor uteplass, du hente inspirasjon fra dette prosjektet og gjøre den plassen du har skikkelig koselig og innbydene. Måten jeg gjør det på her er med blomsterkasser, og en veldig enkel pergola, uten tak!

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En markterrasse er en enkel måte å forvandle uteområdet på. Du får en stabil og praktisk uteplass som kan brukes fra tidlig vår til sen høst – og prosjektet er fullt mulig å gjennomføre selv.
\nUnder finner du nyttige tips som hjelper deg å lykkes, enten du bygger for første gang eller vil gjøre jobben enda bedre.

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Det er ikke så mye som skal til for å lage en hyggelig krok i hagen eller på terrassen, med bare noen få planker og litt innsats kan du lage en kjempekoselig avgrensning i uteområdet ditt i form av en pergola! Rune fra programmene Tid for hage og Tid for hjem viser deg hvordan!

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Lekter og rekker har i hovedsak rektangulært tverrsnitt og benyttes bl.a som anlegg for takstein og kledning. Valg av dimensjon er avhengig av bruksområde og må velges i iht. Norsk Standard. Lekter og rekker leveres i fallende lengder, dvs at lengdene varierer.

\n

Lekter og rekker benyttes til ikke-bærende konstruksjoner, f.eks som stendere i delevegger eller utlekting i forbindelse med etterisolering. Til bærende konstruksjoner må man benytte styrkesortert konstruksjonsvirke iht NS-EN 14081. I værharde kyststrøk og i områder hvor man har erfaring med mye fukt - eller insektskader benyttes ofte impregnert. Sløyfer mot undertak er et eksempel på bruk av impregnert.

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Konstruksjonsvirke benyttes til stendere, takbjelker, sperrer og bjelkelag, samt til produksjon av limtre og takstoler. C18, C24 og C30 er de vanligste styrkeklassene.

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Valg av dimensjoner til konstruksjoner og løsninger gjøres av kvalifisert personell og i henhold til norsk standard. For øvrig henvises det til bjelkelagstabellen og Byggforsk Sintefs byggdetaljblader.

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Konstruksjonsvirke leveres i fallende lengder, dvs at lengdene varierer. Impregneringen bidrar til at konstruksjonsvirket får økt levetid, derfor anbefales det til utendørs anvendelse, f.eks. terrasser. NS-merket er et kvalitetsstempel, og garanterer at kravene i gjeldende norsk standard for styrkesortering NS-EN 14081 er oppfylt.

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Regelverk for visuell styrkesortering er gitt i NS-INSTA 142 og for maskinell styrkesortering i NS-EN 14081-4. Treets styrke og lave vekt gjør at det egner seg godt som konstruksjonsmateriale også i fleretasjes hus.

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Konstruksjonsvirke benyttes til stendere, takbjelker, sperrer og bjelkelag, samt til produksjon av limtre og takstoler. C18, C24 og C30 er de vanligste styrkeklassene.

\n

Valg av dimensjoner til konstruksjoner og løsninger gjøres av kvalifisert personell og i henhold til norsk standard. For øvrig henvises det til bjelkelagstabellen og Byggforsk Sintefs byggdetaljblader.

\n

Konstruksjonsvirke leveres i fallende lengder, dvs at lengdene varierer. Impregneringen bidrar til at konstruksjonsvirket får økt levetid, derfor anbefales det til utendørs anvendelse, f.eks. terrasser. NS-merket er et kvalitetsstempel, og garanterer at kravene i gjeldende norsk standard for styrkesortering NS-EN 14081 er oppfylt.

\n

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