{"componentChunkName":"component---src-templates-page-template-tsx","path":"/tips-og-inspirasjon/gjor-det-selv/lang-bokhylle/","result":{"pageContext":{"title":"Bygg din egen lange bokhylle – steg for steg","seoTitle":"Bygg en lang bokhylle selv – steg for steg | Maxbo","secondaryTitle":"","description":"Lær å bygge en tilpasset bokhylle av MDF og furuplater. Komplett steg-for-steg-guide med kappliste, materialliste og produktlenker. Kjøp alt hos Maxbo.","apiPageUrl":"/tips-og-inspirasjon/gjor-det-selv/lang-bokhylle/","data":{"campaignHeader":null,"articles":[],"url":"/tips-og-inspirasjon/gjor-det-selv/lang-bokhylle","title":"Bygg din egen lange bokhylle – steg for steg","editables":[{"thumbnail":null,"id":465329,"alt":"IMG_7401","width":5712,"height":3213,"path":"/maxbo/tips-inspirasjon/wood-world/lang-bokhylle/IMG_7401.jpeg","xsThumbnail":null,"smThumbnail":null,"mdThumbnail":null,"lgThumbnail":null,"xlThumbnail":null,"xxlThumbnail":null,"typeName":"Editable","type":"image","name":"article-link-image","value":{"id":465329,"alt":"","cropPercent":null,"cropWidth":null,"cropHeight":null,"cropTop":null,"cropLeft":null,"hotspots":[],"marker":[]}},{"typeName":"Editable","type":"select","name":"header-type","value":"default"},{"typeName":"Editable","type":"input","name":"page-title","value":"Bygg din egen lange bokhylle – steg for steg"},{"typeName":"Editable","type":"wysiwyg","name":"preamble","value":"

En bokhylle bygget etter egne mål passer alltid bedre enn noe du finner ferdig i en butikk. Denne guiden viser deg hvordan du bygger en lav, bred veggbokhylle i MDF og furu – komplett med sokkel, topplate og pen overflate. Lengde, høyde og dybde tilpasser du selv – eksemplet her er 335 cm bredt, 69 cm høyt og 29,8 cm dypt.

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Bilde av ferdig resultat

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Materialer og kappliste

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Hyllen er bygget av 10 plater MDF 19 mm (Woodworld, 1200 × 600 mm) og 2 hobbyplater i furu (18 × 400 × 2400 mm) til topplaten. I tillegg trenger du lim, skruer, heftgrunning, maling og lister.

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Tips: Får du kappet platene i butikken, sparer du tid og sikrer rette vinkler. De fleste Maxbo-butikker tilbyr kappservice.

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Fremgangsmåte – 7 steg

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Steg 1: Kappe delene til riktig mål

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Bruk en dykksag med skinne for presise, rette snitt. Alternativt fungerer sirkelsag med guide eller bordsag like bra. Kappe alle deler etter kapplisten over – ha gjerne en ekstra plate i reserve.

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Steg 2: Forsegle kappkanter på MDF

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Kappkanter på MDF suger til seg maling og mister form uten behandling. Puss alle synlige kanter lett med sandpapir, bland deretter 40 % vann og 60 % trelim og smør blandingen på kantene. La tørke. Etter dette holder kantene seg stabile og tar maling jevnt.

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Steg 3: Bygge sokkelen

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Sokkelen er hyllens fundament og holder alt i vater. Den er delt i tre bokser: to store seksjoner (2 stk 15 × 120 + 2 stk 15 × 26 cm) og én mellomseksjon (2 stk 15 × 95 + 2 stk 15 × 26 cm).

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Viktig: Forbor alltid skruehullene når du jobber med MDF – materialet sprekker lett rundt skruer uten forhåndsboret hull. Bruk en drill med batteri og et borsett tilpasset skruestørrelsen.

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Skru sokkelen sammen, still den på plass og sjekk med vater. Fest gjerne sokkelen til veggen der det er mulig – det gir et solid utgangspunkt for resten av monteringen.

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Steg 4: Merke og forbore sidedelene

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Ta frem alle sidedelene (29,8 × 52,2 cm) og marker nøyaktig hvor midterste hylle skal sitte. Overfør merket til begge sider av alle delene – konsekvente mål gir en hylle som faktisk er rett.

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Velger du å bruke lamellkjeks og lamellfres slipper du synlige skruehull. Det gir et finere resultat, men du kan like gjerne bruke treskruer og sparkle hullene etterpå. Fres eller forbor nå – det er lettere å gjøre det på benken enn i montert tilstand.

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Steg 5: Montere de tre seksjonene og koble dem sammen

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Hyllen er delt i tre seksjoner som monteres separat og deretter settes sammen. Hver seksjon består av 2 sider (29,8 × 52,2), 3 hylleplater (29,8 × 64,7) og 2 avstivere (7 × 64,7).

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Midtseksjonen skrues fra begge sider. De to ytterseksjonene skrues inn mot midten og bruker lamellkjeks mot ytterkantene. Bruk trelim overalt – det er halvparten av styrken.

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Fest første seksjon i både sokkel og vegg. Da har du noe å presse mot når hylleplatene mellom seksjonene skal limes og festes. Når alle tre seksjoner er på plass, fester du hele konstruksjonen i sokkelen.

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Steg 6: Legge topplaten

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Topplaten er laget av to hobbyplater i furu (29,8 × 167,5 cm) skjøtet sammen med lamellfres. Skru topplaten fast fra innsiden av hyllen og inn i platen – da er det ingen synlige skruer på toppen.

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Steg 7: Finish – maling og lister

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Mal hele hyllen med heftgrunning først – det er særlig viktig på MDF-kanter. Fest deretter lister langs gulvet og øverst (for eksempel Decospan). Fyll alle sprekker med akrylsparkel eller fugemasse og mal to til tre strøk med god interiørmaling. Bruk en liten malerrull for et jevnt resultat på de flate flatene.

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Dette trenger du – komplett produktliste

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Materialer

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Overflatebehandling

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Verktøy

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Ja – det er hele poenget. Juster lengde, høyde og dybde etter rommet ditt. Husk at bredere hylleplater (over 80 cm) bør ha en avstiver i midten for å unngå at de bøyer seg over tid.

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Ja. Sponplate er billigere men tyngre og mindre egnet for maling med skarp finish. OSB gir et mer industrielt uttrykk. Kryssfiner er sterkere og lettere, men dyrere. MDF er likevel det vanligste valget for malte innredningshyller fordi overflaten er glatt og jevn fra start.

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Du klarer deg fint med bare skruer og lim. Lamellkjeks gir bedre posisjonskontroll og skjuler skjøtene, men er ikke nødvendig. Sparkle og slip skruehullene godt, så synes de ikke etter maling.

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Ved en hylle på over 3 meter og med bøker eller tunge gjenstander anbefales det sterkt å feste sokkelen og øvre del i veggen. Det hindrer velting og gir bedre stabilitet over tid. Sjekk alltid om det er rør eller kabler i veggen før du borer.

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Bruk alltid heftgrunning som første strøk – det gir malingen noe å bite seg fast i. Som toppstrøk fungerer en halvmatt interiørmaling godt. To til tre strøk med lett sliping mellom gir den fineste overflaten.

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Klar til å starte?

\n\n

Finn alle produktene du trenger i Maxbos sortiment av MDF-plater, hobbyplater og overflatebehandling – legg det du trenger i handlekurven og hent i butikk eller få det levert hjem.

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Det finnes et hav av verktøy, men hva trenger du egentlig? Vi har samlet noen verktøy vi mener ethvert nevnenyttig hjem bør ha i verktøykassa.

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Redesign og gjenbruk er både morsomt og bra. Med Quick Bengalack kan du gi nytt til gamle lysestaker, boller og potteskjulere. 

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En stor og solid platting starter ikke med terrassebordene – den starter under bakken. Riktig fundamentering og et godt bjelkelag er forskjellen på en platting som holder i 30 år og én som må rives om fem. Her får du en komplett guide til hele prosessen: fra planlegging og støpepunkter til terrassebord og renskjæring av kanter.

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